Food and New York City
Whether you're digging into a slice of cherry cheesecake, burning your tongue on a piece of fiery Jamaican jerk chicken, or slurping the broth from a juicy soup dumpling, eating in New York City is a culinary adventure unlike any other in the world.
An irresistible sampling of the city's rich food heritage, Gastropolis explores the personal and historical relationship between New Yorkers and food. Beginning with the origins of cuisine combinations, such as Mt. Olympus bagels and Puerto Rican lasagna, the book describes the nature of food and drink before the arrival of Europeans in 1624 and offers a history of early farming practices. Essays trace the function of place and memory in Asian cuisine, the rise of Jewish food icons, the evolution of food enterprises in Harlem, the relationship between restaurant dining and identity, and the role of peddlers and markets in guiding the ingredients of our meals. They share spice-scented recollections of Brooklyn, Queens, and the Bronx, and colorful vignettes of the avant-garde chefs, entrepreneurs, and patrons who continue to influence the way New Yorkers eat.
Touching on everything from religion, nutrition, and agriculture to economics, politics, and psychology, Gastropolis tells a story of immigration, amalgamation, and assimilation. This rich interplay between tradition and change, individual and society, and identity and community could happen only in New York.
While New York may be the subject of more food writing than any other site in the United States, this volume will surprise, enchant, and enlighten. The collection shines.
Frederick Kaufman, author of A Short History of the American Stomach
Gastropolis is a fun read, specifically for those who have watched their culture rise and blossom in this great variegated city.
A veritable feast.
PrefaceAcknowledgmentsFusion City: From Mt. Olympus Bagels to Puerto Rican Lasagna and BeyondCara De SilvaPart I. Places1. The Lenapes: In Search of Pre-European Foodways in the Greater New York RegionAnne Mendelson1. The Food and Drink of New York from 1624 to 1898Andrew F. Smith3. Digging for Food in Early New York CityNan A. Rothschild4. My Little Town: A Brooklyn Girl's Food VoiceAnnie Hauck-LawsonPart II. People5. The Empire of Food: Place, Memory, and Asian "Ethnic Cuisines"Martin F. Manalansan IV6. The Culinary Seasons of My ChildhoodJessica B. Harris7. The Chefs, the Entrepreneurs, and Their Patrons: The Avant-Garde Food Scene in New York CityFabio Parasecoli8. Chow Fun City: Three Centuries of Chinese Cuisine in New York CityHarley SpillerPart III. Trade9. Hawkers and Gawkers: Peddling and Markets in New York CitySuzanne Wasserman10. Asphalt TerroirJoy Santlofer11. The Soul of a StoreMark Russ Federman12. Livin' la Vida Sabrosa: Savoring Latino New YorkRamona Lee Pérez and Babette AudantPart IV. Symbols13. Cosa Mangia OggiAnnie Rachelle Lanzillotto14. From the Big Bagel to the Big Roti? The Evolution of New York City's Jewish Food IconsJennifer Berg15. Cooking Up Heritage in HarlemDamian M. Mosley16. Eating Out, Eating American: New York Restaurant Dining and IdentityMitchell Davis17. Hungry CityJanet Poppendieck and JC DwyerContributorsIndex